| Horsepower and Torque Explained
I get asked a thousand times a year - how can I get more power
from my car/truck/SUV/motorhome - you name it! What many people
really want is better acceleration, or improved fuel economy,
or to be able to pull a bigger load. Before putting a pile
of money into the engine, we should take a look at what power
really is, and how it moves our vehicles. Look at almost any
automobile review and you will find horsepower and torque
listed in the specs. For example, my "Quickmobile"
has 200 horsepower at 9000 rpm and 57 ft lbs. torque at 2000
rpm. Is this vehicle really quick, or do numbers sometimes
play tricks on us? Well, it has 200 horsepower. What does
that mean?
Horsepower is related to torque, and torque is turning force.
Place a lever on the engine's crankshaft and measure the twisting
force produced, and you have torque. Note that time is not
a factor - torque can be constant over time. Horsepower, on
the other hand, is the rate at which the torque is produced.
Horsepower is a measurement of the engine's ability to do
work. One horsepower can lift 33,000 pounds up one foot in
one minute. Horsepower is measured over time. The more horsepower
a vehicle has, the more mass it can move in the same amount
of time, or it can move a fairly constant mass (the weight
of the car) in less time. In simple terms, to get a vehicle
accelerating quicker, we need to produce torque faster. There
are many different ways of measuring the power of an engine.
Brake horsepower is a common term and refers to the power
measured at the crankshaft using a "prony" brake.
A prony brake was a simple lever that was connected to the
crankshaft with a brake. As the brake was applied, the lever
would deflect and power was indicated. Nowadays, computers
and strain gauges are used to measure the power.
Rear wheel horsepower is just what it implies - horsepower
applied by the rear wheels. A chassis dynamometer is used
to measure the power transferred by the drive wheels onto
the dynamometer's rollers. Brake horsepower is much lower
than the horsepower specs provided by the manufacturers, because
of all the power used by the transmission, final drive, and
accessories.
Gross horsepower is the power measured at the crankshaft without
any engine accessories. This includes removing the air cleaner
and ductwork, exhaust system, water pump drive, and any other
devices driven by the engine. Prior to 1973, horsepower specifications
were listed by the manufacturers as gross horsepower. After
1972, manufacturers provided net horsepower specifications.
Net horsepower is also measured at the crankshaft before it
goes into the transmission, but this time the engine is operated
as it is installed in the vehicle, complete with accessories
and ductwork. Occasionally, usually when reading overseas
vehicle information, I find reference to taxable horsepower.
Taxable horsepower is a simple mathematics calculation used
to determine the taxes to be paid on the vehicle. It has very
little to do with actual horsepower because it doesn't factor
in key elements like compression ratios, cylinder head design,
and camshaft specifications. To calculate taxable horsepower
multiply the cylinder bore x cylinder bore x number of cylinders
x 0.4, and don't forget to pay the tax! Many engineering documents
and European manufacturers list engine power in Kilowatts.
We more commonly use kilowatts to measure electrical power,
but it is easy to convert from kilowatts to horsepower. One
kilowatt is equal to 1.341 horsepower. While you are converting,
you can also change torque measured in Newton metres (Nm)
to ft lbs. by multiplying the Nm by 0.737561.
There are other measurements of horsepower. It can be converted
to British thermal units (BTU) or it can be listed in PS.
PS is short for Pferdestarke, the term for metric horsepower.
Don't ask - I haven't seen it used anywhere either, but if
you want to dazzle your friends, one horsepower is equal to
1.0139 PS. So back to my Quickmobile. It really isn't very
quick. With only 57 ft lbs. of torque, there isn't a lot of
twist to turn the wheels. Sure, it has 200 hp, but it comes
at a high 9000 rpm so it isn't very useful for normal driving
or accelerating from a stop. To achieve good performance,
operate the engine at its peak torque, and the lower the rpm
this occurs, the stronger it will pull from a stop. I see
too many "hot-rodded" engines where all they go
after is maximum horsepower at high rpm. If you have a light
vehicle, steep axle gearing, and are willing to constantly
rev the engine high, then high horsepower numbers will make
you go fast. Great for racing. For most of use however, it
is better to have an engine with higher torque ratings and
the lower or broader the rpm range it achieves it the better.
Torque is what gets your vehicle moving. For everyday driving,
I would pick a vehicle with high torque ratings at low rpm
over a high horsepower, high rpm one any time.
Want the best of both? Then consider vehicle with a supercharged
or turbocharged engine. By packing more air into the engine,
torque is increased dramatically, but the engine can still
be built for high rpm operation. Who says you can't have your
cake and eat it too. Unfortunately, cake costs money, and
so do superchargers and turbo's. There is always a catch.
Akamoto offers a great range of Performance Parts including Alloy Wheels, Body Kits, Performance Parts, Exhausts, Street Racing, Drag Racing, Superchargers, Nitrous Oxide, Drifting, Car Tuning, Turbo chargers. |
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